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This guide contains illegal shit. It's for entertainment purposes and if you like boring ass long reads. The aforementioned guide will give you some tips regarding how to get the necessary stuff to exploit an Amazon account, how to act while exploiting an Amazon account and how to use an Amazon stolen account to increase your chances of success at getting something out of them. Again, illegally.
STUFF:
What you'll need: * Amazon login details. * A VPN and/or SOCKS5. * A drop.
What you don't need, but may be really useful: * Email access of the accounts you ordered. * User address. * A public/cracked Wi-Fi. * Basic social engineering skills.
STEP BY STEP GUIDE
PART 0: GENERAL SETUP FOR CARDING PURPOSES
a) Finding and setting up your VPN: This is especially useful If you're a dealing with an Amazon account you want to social engineer - alas, getting a replacement for an item. Your best bet is using the newest VPN or a VPS service you can find, as it will maximize your chance of avoiding the account suspension. Search forums or Google, new VPNs pop daily. You'll know this is a good VPN for the purpose of Amazon SE if: * It has been around for more than two, but less than six months (a general rule, you don't want to use an IP which has been blacklisted by Amazon). * Offers a lot of international servers. Depending on the account, you may need French, German, UK or Italian ones. * States, or at least claims, to never keep logs. * Accepts BTC.
Same goes for SOCKS5, search for them and search for new and fresh ones. All of this stuff is very cheap (lowest I found was $0.99 for a month). Don't use TOR with Amazon, period.
Optional: cracking a nearby Wi-Fi. There are a lot of tools for cracking Wi-Fis. I won't go in detail 'cause the process itself is
long. Check out this link (WARNING/ CLEARNET):
Now, download CC Cleaner or just create a new user from the control panel if you are on a Windows machine. For more infos on CC Cleaner check here (WARNING/ CLEARNET):
These steps will further clean all your previous internet history. With a cracked wi-fi, a clean history and a VPN you are basically covered and almost completely anonymous. Last thing, if you wanna be 100% sure, is spoofing your MAC address. Running a MAC spoofer will make your PC/laptop appear as a different one on the LAN. It's not really needed unless you get swatted, but better safe than sorry.
For more infos on how to spoof your MAC click here http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Computer's-Mac-Address-in-Windows
Now you are set with your hardware.
PART 1: FINDING A DROP. You can't do shit without a drop. Actually you probably wouldn't buy logins unless you had one. There are a lot of guides around and whatnot, I'll just state some basic facts. If you are in the U.S. or the U.K. and you are dead set on order an item (smaller than 30 x 30 x 30 cm x 10 lbs) use an Amazon Locker. Simple enough. If not in the U.S. or the U.K. and/or with a bigger item, it's pretty harder, but you still can:
1. Set your own house as a drop. How: Probably the most dangerous thing you could ever do, but if you want to play coy you can just sign in a different name when receiving your carded stuff and then act like you never saw that package in your life should anyone come to claim something. You never signed that piece of paper, you didn't touch that touchscreen and you didn't ever see the mailman who is accusing you. Not really a smart move and for high-end items you'll probably face some consequences, anyway, but from a logic point of view it's your word against (eventually) the courier. The advantage is that if shipping goes well, you get whatever you carded directly. The disadvantages are... well, pretty obvious.
2. Rent a house. How: Easier or harder than other options depending on circumstances, always a bit of a hassle if you don't live in a God's forsaken country where people are educated enough to know that they should be able to identify who they are renting their house to. Find a house in a near city (google it, search locally for listings) and rent it under a fake name. For some days and if you are young it's possible they won't ask for any ID form (good handmade fake IDs are too pricey on the deepweb for the purpose of getting some out of Amazon, unless you already bought one or are replacing a $/£/€ 1000+ item).
3. Using someone else's lawn and a burner phone. How: Easiest thing ever if you live in good ol' America. The good thing is that is mostly
anonymous. Remember option 1? This is the other way round, you'll make an order in someone else's name, who'll take the blame for you - most, fortunately, go through this unscathed, other than taking the piss for your actions. You'll necessarily need a burner phone too. Just make an order to a lawn easily accessible to you and say in the notes: "Call this number before delivering/let me know at what time you'll be delivering, I'll reach you "... to your burner phone, of course. Wait for the call, go to your drop, meet eventually with the courier and pick up the package. No sweat, but make sure it is a house waiting to be rented or not yet sold. If owned, find a time when it's completely empty. Tricky and could still go horribly wrong, but it may work. Courier don't ask for IDs, nor are allowed to. Best thing is picking up a single woman address, go there and pretend you are her husband/fiancée. Or if you are a girl or have a girl who is willing to risk her ass for you, you can do it the other way round.
4. Using a reship near you. There are totally anonymous ones if you know where to look, but I wouldn't want to saturate my reshipping companies. So you can try to use "reship.com" under a fake name (gifting) OR the legit account owner's name. Still not really recommended though, but if you act fast you probably won't need verifications. Prepare fake ID scans (cheap, unlike full-fledged fake IDs) to send through email just in case. Overall a high risk/ high payoff solution you may want to consider. The limit is it works as intended only if you can go pick the thing yourself, otherwise your personal address will still be exposed.
5. Using a fence/drop & reship service found on the deepweb. If you are not in the U. S. there are some guys on the deepweb that will help you. For a price. I won't get in detail. Somewhat still risky as you could get scammed, or they charge a 1:1 fee (meaning: they'll take a good equal to the value of the one you are getting). Again, search for it. Be prepared for 100+ service fees other than double shipping expenses to pay.
So, in the end, order something that fits in an Amazon Locker (30 x 30 x 30 cm x 10 lbs) and stay safe. Otherwise, in the preferred order: option 5 for bigger packages, option 4, option 2, option 3... option 1. Like I said, an Amazon locker is the easiest ever and most secure. Look up on Amazon for more info. Only available in the U.S. and U.K. Use that in conjunction to reships if you leave in other countries for total anonymity.
1. PART 2: GETTING INSIDE THE ACCOUNT Things could slightly be different if: - You are using a .com account
- You are using an .eu one
- If you are using an .eu (.de/.fr./.es/.it/.co.uk), just grab a server on your VPN in the same country (Germany, France, Spain, Italy, United Kingdom). You will login without problems unless your address has been blacklisted, in that case you would need a better, less saturated VPN.
- If you are using a .com account: a) Grab a U.S. server (for the nth time, look for a fresh VPN/VPS, if you get the account suspended/banned it's because you used an IP shared by a previous Amazon scammer) b) go to payments and login with the user account/pass c) Log-out d) Log-in to Amazon.com
If you accidentally logged in to amazon.com before going to payments chances are you'll trigger the security response. Don't worry. Log-out from Amazon's account and follows step "b" and on. You'll then be able to get to step "d" without issues.
Optional, but potentially useful: try to access the owner's email. IF and only IF you are using an .eu account or a .com account with a foreign email address (.uk/.es/.lt/whatever) it's worth checking if the mail and the passwords provided are the same for the account. I'll warn you it's unlikely, though, unless we are able to get them through our private means. May or may not happen in the future. Working on it, because, frankly speaking, an email access can ensure success. If you want to get to a USA email, instead, follow the steps a-d steps, take a note of the address and find a VPN geolocated in the nearest possible city. And you'll be able to login if the email/pass are still matching. Now, that being said, depending on circumstances you may happen to get the actual access or not (keep your VPN to the email owner's country or you'll probably freeze the email). If yes, you'll probably hit a friggin' gold mine, especially if the Amazon card is loaded and the email is linked to ther stuff you may or may not want to crack. Should that be the case, search the email for its spam filters and add a filter with "Amazon" as the sender and "reject" as the action. If not available, select "send to junk/spam folder". This means that every e-mail coming from Amazon will be automatically refused or sent to the spam folder, and should the user log in to their email during the time you are carding they won't notice Amazon tried to get in touch unless they go all the way to their spam folder. With the "reject" option they won't have any email and they'll be completely oblivious.
Optional, but potentially useful: if you want to SE stuff and you are in Europe, see if the owner's account has an .eu account. Connect to their .com and find the address infos in the account settings. Chances are that 90% of the time if there are not orders in Amazon.com and an EU address you'll find orders in the Amazon.eu website. With the order details you are able to social
engineer stuff to your drop. Combine this with the email trick and you are pretty much guaranteed to receive the item to your drop. I say "drop" as there are some things to clear: Amazon Lockers are still not available in most parts of Europe (just U.K.) at the time this guide is being written, so if you are in EU go for the second-best option of using multiple reships or a U.K. drop. If you are in the U.S. you may even skillfully dispatch a replacement to an address in the U.S. for a good purchased in Europe (warning: they'll try to charge the CC with VATs and customs). Yeah, that's right. It may be worth if it's an old +$400 "sold & fulfilled by Amazon" item with international shipping offered in the description. Less likely to succeed, but not as impossible as you may think if you say you moved oversea and never received your stuff at the moment of your purchase. If that sounds too hardcore stick to basic SE and replace it to a U.K. deepweb drop, then reship to your location whatever it may be. Confused because you never SE'd in your life? We'll get to SE right now:
PART 3: IF YOU WANT TO DO SOME SOCIAL ENGINEERING It's really easy to SE something out of Amazon and it's always worth a shot BEFORE the eventual carding, because you will usually get some profit. Super easy if this is a longstanding account, and most of the accounts you'll be provided are quite old, in the sense they were created long ago.
The basic outline should be: 1. Get an order details (number, date, address, receiver) 2. Contact Amazon Support 3. Tell them that you never received the box of all those years ago.
Contacting by mail/ticket/chat (I suggest chat, it's the fastest and speed here is the key to get the package shipped successfully, phone is even better, but you need a little confidence and a burner phone) you should write something along the lines of: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------"Hello, I am *******, I was recently browsing my order history and I noticed that in 201* I had ordered a *******. My account order number was ********** and it was supposedly received on **********. I am absolutely certain I never received anything on that day (optional because "I clearly remember buying another one some time later locally", "I got one as a gift around the same time" or some other bullshit). I don't know what to do, could you help me?" -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
They will get back at you saying how they understand your concern and, depending on the item value, they may offer a refund or a replacement or nothing of the sort. You have multiple choices here, but being an item "fulfilled and sold", a "fulfilled by Amazon" or from an AZ seller will trigger different responses:
If it's "fulfilled and sold" -> they'll offer a replacement OR a refund if it's "fulfilled by Amazon" -> they'll offer ONLY a refund if it's an "AZ seller" -> varies, they may ask you to contact the seller or asking to issue an refund
With "fulfilled and sold", thank them and ask for a replacement. Add a reason like: a. I recently moved b. It was for a friend
To ship it to a different address. And you're done. Choose your drop or your Amazon Locker. If you've cracked the email too you'll most likely face no trouble because the victim won't be able to know anything until they login (may take days/weeks/months). To be 100% sure, login to the email and delete whatever may come in the spam/junk folder (usually Amazon will send a small token of appreciation to the owner in the form of an email). Now the owner will find out a replacement has been sent to someone ONLY in the Amazon order history, and, like I said, you'll probably have plenty of time to dispatch/ pick-up the good from Amazon locker. Note that Amazon usually offers the fastest shipping option (one day) for a replacement, again out of kindness, so unless the guy logs in and check the order history the very next day you'll have a new item you can pick anonymously at your Amazon Locker. Even if using the other options, mind that Amazon won't ever employ repo men to get their stuff back even after the fraud has been discovered, so congrats.
Case number 2: with "fulfilled by Amazon" is where things get tricky. You'll get a refund ONLY to the owner's original credit card (the one used for purchasing the good) if it was purchased through credit card, if not you'll get it to your AGC balance. It's not really an Amazon's rule, but a general merchant's rule for security purposes and it's usually in the TOS of every payment gateway company. So, unless they purchased by giftcard (check the order history for full details on the transaction you are looking for) or you want to make them a nice surprise, go ballistic or try to make up a sob story (more about this later), as you have really nothing to lose (they won't close your account even if you wanted to piss them off) by saying you lost that credit card recently/ your wallet. Even off-the-top bullshit like deaths work great: "I am not the account owner, but their wife/husband as they recently died, their credit card is dead too, why won't you just give me a refund for something I never received?". It's no holds barred, pretentious bullshit will most likely get you some promo credit in the worst case scenario. It's really hard they will comply with your request for a FULL refund to another credit card and/or via gift card, almost impossible for higher amounts of money. Pulling their strings, on the other hand, will make them in 90% of the cases issue a small amount gift card for no reason at all. They'll be like "We are sorry for your loss, we cannot issue a full refund but please accept $20 of gift/promotional balance" to your account.". Still, you made a profit. Again, nothing is guaranteed: remember that Amazon's staff is formed by human beings. Try to get them on your side, this is what SE really is. I'm not gonna lie: getting them to refund from a credit card purchase to Amazon Gift Card balance is 90% of the time fruitless. But, there is a statistically relevant percentage of people
who pulled it off even for higher amounts (in the 100ish/300ish). It all depends on your social skills and a bit of luck. You may want to get an experienced "Amazon Social Engineer" for that. There are quite a lot of people (clearnet and deepweb) who make a business out of SEing Amazon, and really good ones can probably pull it off. They usually charge anywhere between a 10 to 20% of the price of the good if successful, so be warned.
"AZ seller" leaves you with no options, go directly for the sob story and accept the $20/$10 balance.
Another tactic for no-order accounts it may give you some luck is the “Amazon Gift Card sob-story” that goes as following: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------"Hello, I am *******, I’ve been a faithful client of yours since *****. I recently bought a $500 gift card at a local store a couple weeks ago, I planned to use it to **************************** (sob story = could be gifts for your son/daughter, flowers for your dead mother, a book for your brother in the hospital)… however I lost my wallet/ a thief stole it ******* (add some details). I already filed a police report and everything. Is there any way I can possibly get my giftcard back? Please, I’m really desperate. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chat a bit, following the guide lines of the previous SE. If they do not mention consolation giftcards, do not be afraid to ask DIRECTLY. They’ll probably toss you a small one. Sound as miserable as possible. Again, be sure they send it to an email address you own or credit directly to your Amazon account. Then go buy whatever digital item you want and quickly redeem/ make someone redeem it for a price.
Note: Same rules go for phoning them. Actually, if you are phoning them, chances of success usually skyrocket, and even the items only "fulfilled by Amazon" may do for a full refund. Use a burner phone, sound convincing and put up a good act.
PART 4: IF YOU WANT TO CARD (I DIDN'T PERSONALLY CHECK THE TRIAL PART) Done with the SE part, you'll probably want to try to use the Amazon account like a set of Fullz. First off, and it's very important, you should check if the credit card is expired/dead. It will save you a lot of hassles, so check the expiration date of the card. If it's not past its date, good. You can now know if it's live or not. Browse the order history: does this person buy a lot? Did they purchase something in the last 30 days? If yes, then rest assured that the card has some balance. Another way to do this if the card had a really old last order it's to sign up for a free trial: either Amazon Prime or Amazon Cloud will do. This is because Amazon won't charge a card, but just check if it's valid. Moreover, Amazon Prime is useful and quick to receive your shit.
If the Amazon trial is successful, congrats. Your card must have some balance you can take for yourself.
Note that whatever you may do after signing up for the trial is to be done fast if you have no email access/ didn't do the email cracking, anyway. The email will most likely receive something regarding their recent free trial. It's kinda of a non-alerting type of mail though, people may interpret that as "oh, I got a freebie from Amazon" or not.
Now you can try to card. There are two ways: A. Order a physical item directly to an Amazon Locker/drop (risky, remember that this solution is great for replacing items, but only adequate for carding) B. Order a gift card C. Order a digital code
"A" is the obvious, but, even after all the talk about drops before, this is a gamble, because you won't know if shipping is a success until a few hours. You should place multiple shipments for different amounts (like a first, big one of, let's say, $300, then a second one of $150 and a last one of $50). Amazon will give priority to the first and if not able to charge the CC will keep going down. Do no more than three or your account will get flagged. And, whatever you do, always ship as a gift to a fake name and an Amazon Locker. "B/C" is the subtle approach, and it's much more rewarding with a little work, like posting an add of giftcards for BTC and flipping the card instantaneously. Simply try to purchase digital codes and redeem them/sell them instantly or spam an email you own with Amazon Gift Cards. "B" is the most recommended option. Trial & Error like sending a $500 gift card and then going down if not working, or sending a couple of $50 to your stealth email should both work. Amazon gift cards are usually instantly credited to the account (sender/owner will be potentially be alerted). Stop after a few or try again until the card is drained. From now on, you should probably have already prepared a spare, fresh Amazon account you created. If not, create BEFORE the above steps a new one with a valid VCC (lots of sellers even on the clearnet, for price a few dollars) and an Amazon Prime subscription, just add one or two gift cards to it and purchase to an Amazon Locker. It should ship the next working day and time will hopefully be on your side. When it's shipped, it's unlikely anything will be done to you. Amazon usually won't deactivate/remove carded balance to protect unknowing consumers who may have purchased from a fraudulent seller, and 9 times out of 10 won't bother stopping the courier anyway. Moreover, there is no proof you are the one who carded in the first place (remember to change VPN/proxy if you are paranoid). GG. Just reminding that, currently, Lockers can accept parcels up to 30cm x 30cm x 30cm in dimension, with a maximum weight of 10lb.
PART 5: IF YOUR ACCOUNT IS SHIT So, you ended up with a completely worthless account: no orders and the card has expired/ has no balance. What to do?
Simplest answer ever: don't do anything else and wait. Unless the owner changes the account’s password you can keep checking it later for new purchases, new stuff and/or new cards added in total security. Treat your login infos just like a fishing rod in the sea. Then, strike the moment a new purchase is made or you see a new card. If you're up for some fun, still strike up a chat with Amazon's staff member and give them the sob story/money loss/continuous strange problems with your account. Who knows, like I said, they give small AGC for almost every stupid issue, why shouldn’t you try it anyway? And that takes us to the last point...
PART 6: GET CREATIVE This is especially for the experienced Social Engineer. This guide and its elements are just tool you can use, combine them, use your own twist. If you have half a brain you probably thought of something you can add to this or do yourself. Don't get discouraged if things go wrong the first time. Don't get careless. Don't get greedy. And more than anything, get creative. Audentes fortuna iuvat.
Best of luck!
STUFF:
What you'll need: * Amazon login details. * A VPN and/or SOCKS5. * A drop.
What you don't need, but may be really useful: * Email access of the accounts you ordered. * User address. * A public/cracked Wi-Fi. * Basic social engineering skills.
STEP BY STEP GUIDE
PART 0: GENERAL SETUP FOR CARDING PURPOSES
a) Finding and setting up your VPN: This is especially useful If you're a dealing with an Amazon account you want to social engineer - alas, getting a replacement for an item. Your best bet is using the newest VPN or a VPS service you can find, as it will maximize your chance of avoiding the account suspension. Search forums or Google, new VPNs pop daily. You'll know this is a good VPN for the purpose of Amazon SE if: * It has been around for more than two, but less than six months (a general rule, you don't want to use an IP which has been blacklisted by Amazon). * Offers a lot of international servers. Depending on the account, you may need French, German, UK or Italian ones. * States, or at least claims, to never keep logs. * Accepts BTC.
Same goes for SOCKS5, search for them and search for new and fresh ones. All of this stuff is very cheap (lowest I found was $0.99 for a month). Don't use TOR with Amazon, period.
Optional: cracking a nearby Wi-Fi. There are a lot of tools for cracking Wi-Fis. I won't go in detail 'cause the process itself is
long. Check out this link (WARNING/ CLEARNET):
Now, download CC Cleaner or just create a new user from the control panel if you are on a Windows machine. For more infos on CC Cleaner check here (WARNING/ CLEARNET):
These steps will further clean all your previous internet history. With a cracked wi-fi, a clean history and a VPN you are basically covered and almost completely anonymous. Last thing, if you wanna be 100% sure, is spoofing your MAC address. Running a MAC spoofer will make your PC/laptop appear as a different one on the LAN. It's not really needed unless you get swatted, but better safe than sorry.
For more infos on how to spoof your MAC click here http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Computer's-Mac-Address-in-Windows
Now you are set with your hardware.
PART 1: FINDING A DROP. You can't do shit without a drop. Actually you probably wouldn't buy logins unless you had one. There are a lot of guides around and whatnot, I'll just state some basic facts. If you are in the U.S. or the U.K. and you are dead set on order an item (smaller than 30 x 30 x 30 cm x 10 lbs) use an Amazon Locker. Simple enough. If not in the U.S. or the U.K. and/or with a bigger item, it's pretty harder, but you still can:
1. Set your own house as a drop. How: Probably the most dangerous thing you could ever do, but if you want to play coy you can just sign in a different name when receiving your carded stuff and then act like you never saw that package in your life should anyone come to claim something. You never signed that piece of paper, you didn't touch that touchscreen and you didn't ever see the mailman who is accusing you. Not really a smart move and for high-end items you'll probably face some consequences, anyway, but from a logic point of view it's your word against (eventually) the courier. The advantage is that if shipping goes well, you get whatever you carded directly. The disadvantages are... well, pretty obvious.
2. Rent a house. How: Easier or harder than other options depending on circumstances, always a bit of a hassle if you don't live in a God's forsaken country where people are educated enough to know that they should be able to identify who they are renting their house to. Find a house in a near city (google it, search locally for listings) and rent it under a fake name. For some days and if you are young it's possible they won't ask for any ID form (good handmade fake IDs are too pricey on the deepweb for the purpose of getting some out of Amazon, unless you already bought one or are replacing a $/£/€ 1000+ item).
3. Using someone else's lawn and a burner phone. How: Easiest thing ever if you live in good ol' America. The good thing is that is mostly
anonymous. Remember option 1? This is the other way round, you'll make an order in someone else's name, who'll take the blame for you - most, fortunately, go through this unscathed, other than taking the piss for your actions. You'll necessarily need a burner phone too. Just make an order to a lawn easily accessible to you and say in the notes: "Call this number before delivering/let me know at what time you'll be delivering, I'll reach you "... to your burner phone, of course. Wait for the call, go to your drop, meet eventually with the courier and pick up the package. No sweat, but make sure it is a house waiting to be rented or not yet sold. If owned, find a time when it's completely empty. Tricky and could still go horribly wrong, but it may work. Courier don't ask for IDs, nor are allowed to. Best thing is picking up a single woman address, go there and pretend you are her husband/fiancée. Or if you are a girl or have a girl who is willing to risk her ass for you, you can do it the other way round.
4. Using a reship near you. There are totally anonymous ones if you know where to look, but I wouldn't want to saturate my reshipping companies. So you can try to use "reship.com" under a fake name (gifting) OR the legit account owner's name. Still not really recommended though, but if you act fast you probably won't need verifications. Prepare fake ID scans (cheap, unlike full-fledged fake IDs) to send through email just in case. Overall a high risk/ high payoff solution you may want to consider. The limit is it works as intended only if you can go pick the thing yourself, otherwise your personal address will still be exposed.
5. Using a fence/drop & reship service found on the deepweb. If you are not in the U. S. there are some guys on the deepweb that will help you. For a price. I won't get in detail. Somewhat still risky as you could get scammed, or they charge a 1:1 fee (meaning: they'll take a good equal to the value of the one you are getting). Again, search for it. Be prepared for 100+ service fees other than double shipping expenses to pay.
So, in the end, order something that fits in an Amazon Locker (30 x 30 x 30 cm x 10 lbs) and stay safe. Otherwise, in the preferred order: option 5 for bigger packages, option 4, option 2, option 3... option 1. Like I said, an Amazon locker is the easiest ever and most secure. Look up on Amazon for more info. Only available in the U.S. and U.K. Use that in conjunction to reships if you leave in other countries for total anonymity.
1. PART 2: GETTING INSIDE THE ACCOUNT Things could slightly be different if: - You are using a .com account
- You are using an .eu one
- If you are using an .eu (.de/.fr./.es/.it/.co.uk), just grab a server on your VPN in the same country (Germany, France, Spain, Italy, United Kingdom). You will login without problems unless your address has been blacklisted, in that case you would need a better, less saturated VPN.
- If you are using a .com account: a) Grab a U.S. server (for the nth time, look for a fresh VPN/VPS, if you get the account suspended/banned it's because you used an IP shared by a previous Amazon scammer) b) go to payments and login with the user account/pass c) Log-out d) Log-in to Amazon.com
If you accidentally logged in to amazon.com before going to payments chances are you'll trigger the security response. Don't worry. Log-out from Amazon's account and follows step "b" and on. You'll then be able to get to step "d" without issues.
Optional, but potentially useful: try to access the owner's email. IF and only IF you are using an .eu account or a .com account with a foreign email address (.uk/.es/.lt/whatever) it's worth checking if the mail and the passwords provided are the same for the account. I'll warn you it's unlikely, though, unless we are able to get them through our private means. May or may not happen in the future. Working on it, because, frankly speaking, an email access can ensure success. If you want to get to a USA email, instead, follow the steps a-d steps, take a note of the address and find a VPN geolocated in the nearest possible city. And you'll be able to login if the email/pass are still matching. Now, that being said, depending on circumstances you may happen to get the actual access or not (keep your VPN to the email owner's country or you'll probably freeze the email). If yes, you'll probably hit a friggin' gold mine, especially if the Amazon card is loaded and the email is linked to ther stuff you may or may not want to crack. Should that be the case, search the email for its spam filters and add a filter with "Amazon" as the sender and "reject" as the action. If not available, select "send to junk/spam folder". This means that every e-mail coming from Amazon will be automatically refused or sent to the spam folder, and should the user log in to their email during the time you are carding they won't notice Amazon tried to get in touch unless they go all the way to their spam folder. With the "reject" option they won't have any email and they'll be completely oblivious.
Optional, but potentially useful: if you want to SE stuff and you are in Europe, see if the owner's account has an .eu account. Connect to their .com and find the address infos in the account settings. Chances are that 90% of the time if there are not orders in Amazon.com and an EU address you'll find orders in the Amazon.eu website. With the order details you are able to social
engineer stuff to your drop. Combine this with the email trick and you are pretty much guaranteed to receive the item to your drop. I say "drop" as there are some things to clear: Amazon Lockers are still not available in most parts of Europe (just U.K.) at the time this guide is being written, so if you are in EU go for the second-best option of using multiple reships or a U.K. drop. If you are in the U.S. you may even skillfully dispatch a replacement to an address in the U.S. for a good purchased in Europe (warning: they'll try to charge the CC with VATs and customs). Yeah, that's right. It may be worth if it's an old +$400 "sold & fulfilled by Amazon" item with international shipping offered in the description. Less likely to succeed, but not as impossible as you may think if you say you moved oversea and never received your stuff at the moment of your purchase. If that sounds too hardcore stick to basic SE and replace it to a U.K. deepweb drop, then reship to your location whatever it may be. Confused because you never SE'd in your life? We'll get to SE right now:
PART 3: IF YOU WANT TO DO SOME SOCIAL ENGINEERING It's really easy to SE something out of Amazon and it's always worth a shot BEFORE the eventual carding, because you will usually get some profit. Super easy if this is a longstanding account, and most of the accounts you'll be provided are quite old, in the sense they were created long ago.
The basic outline should be: 1. Get an order details (number, date, address, receiver) 2. Contact Amazon Support 3. Tell them that you never received the box of all those years ago.
Contacting by mail/ticket/chat (I suggest chat, it's the fastest and speed here is the key to get the package shipped successfully, phone is even better, but you need a little confidence and a burner phone) you should write something along the lines of: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------"Hello, I am *******, I was recently browsing my order history and I noticed that in 201* I had ordered a *******. My account order number was ********** and it was supposedly received on **********. I am absolutely certain I never received anything on that day (optional because "I clearly remember buying another one some time later locally", "I got one as a gift around the same time" or some other bullshit). I don't know what to do, could you help me?" -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
They will get back at you saying how they understand your concern and, depending on the item value, they may offer a refund or a replacement or nothing of the sort. You have multiple choices here, but being an item "fulfilled and sold", a "fulfilled by Amazon" or from an AZ seller will trigger different responses:
If it's "fulfilled and sold" -> they'll offer a replacement OR a refund if it's "fulfilled by Amazon" -> they'll offer ONLY a refund if it's an "AZ seller" -> varies, they may ask you to contact the seller or asking to issue an refund
With "fulfilled and sold", thank them and ask for a replacement. Add a reason like: a. I recently moved b. It was for a friend
To ship it to a different address. And you're done. Choose your drop or your Amazon Locker. If you've cracked the email too you'll most likely face no trouble because the victim won't be able to know anything until they login (may take days/weeks/months). To be 100% sure, login to the email and delete whatever may come in the spam/junk folder (usually Amazon will send a small token of appreciation to the owner in the form of an email). Now the owner will find out a replacement has been sent to someone ONLY in the Amazon order history, and, like I said, you'll probably have plenty of time to dispatch/ pick-up the good from Amazon locker. Note that Amazon usually offers the fastest shipping option (one day) for a replacement, again out of kindness, so unless the guy logs in and check the order history the very next day you'll have a new item you can pick anonymously at your Amazon Locker. Even if using the other options, mind that Amazon won't ever employ repo men to get their stuff back even after the fraud has been discovered, so congrats.
Case number 2: with "fulfilled by Amazon" is where things get tricky. You'll get a refund ONLY to the owner's original credit card (the one used for purchasing the good) if it was purchased through credit card, if not you'll get it to your AGC balance. It's not really an Amazon's rule, but a general merchant's rule for security purposes and it's usually in the TOS of every payment gateway company. So, unless they purchased by giftcard (check the order history for full details on the transaction you are looking for) or you want to make them a nice surprise, go ballistic or try to make up a sob story (more about this later), as you have really nothing to lose (they won't close your account even if you wanted to piss them off) by saying you lost that credit card recently/ your wallet. Even off-the-top bullshit like deaths work great: "I am not the account owner, but their wife/husband as they recently died, their credit card is dead too, why won't you just give me a refund for something I never received?". It's no holds barred, pretentious bullshit will most likely get you some promo credit in the worst case scenario. It's really hard they will comply with your request for a FULL refund to another credit card and/or via gift card, almost impossible for higher amounts of money. Pulling their strings, on the other hand, will make them in 90% of the cases issue a small amount gift card for no reason at all. They'll be like "We are sorry for your loss, we cannot issue a full refund but please accept $20 of gift/promotional balance" to your account.". Still, you made a profit. Again, nothing is guaranteed: remember that Amazon's staff is formed by human beings. Try to get them on your side, this is what SE really is. I'm not gonna lie: getting them to refund from a credit card purchase to Amazon Gift Card balance is 90% of the time fruitless. But, there is a statistically relevant percentage of people
who pulled it off even for higher amounts (in the 100ish/300ish). It all depends on your social skills and a bit of luck. You may want to get an experienced "Amazon Social Engineer" for that. There are quite a lot of people (clearnet and deepweb) who make a business out of SEing Amazon, and really good ones can probably pull it off. They usually charge anywhere between a 10 to 20% of the price of the good if successful, so be warned.
"AZ seller" leaves you with no options, go directly for the sob story and accept the $20/$10 balance.
Another tactic for no-order accounts it may give you some luck is the “Amazon Gift Card sob-story” that goes as following: -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------"Hello, I am *******, I’ve been a faithful client of yours since *****. I recently bought a $500 gift card at a local store a couple weeks ago, I planned to use it to **************************** (sob story = could be gifts for your son/daughter, flowers for your dead mother, a book for your brother in the hospital)… however I lost my wallet/ a thief stole it ******* (add some details). I already filed a police report and everything. Is there any way I can possibly get my giftcard back? Please, I’m really desperate. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chat a bit, following the guide lines of the previous SE. If they do not mention consolation giftcards, do not be afraid to ask DIRECTLY. They’ll probably toss you a small one. Sound as miserable as possible. Again, be sure they send it to an email address you own or credit directly to your Amazon account. Then go buy whatever digital item you want and quickly redeem/ make someone redeem it for a price.
Note: Same rules go for phoning them. Actually, if you are phoning them, chances of success usually skyrocket, and even the items only "fulfilled by Amazon" may do for a full refund. Use a burner phone, sound convincing and put up a good act.
PART 4: IF YOU WANT TO CARD (I DIDN'T PERSONALLY CHECK THE TRIAL PART) Done with the SE part, you'll probably want to try to use the Amazon account like a set of Fullz. First off, and it's very important, you should check if the credit card is expired/dead. It will save you a lot of hassles, so check the expiration date of the card. If it's not past its date, good. You can now know if it's live or not. Browse the order history: does this person buy a lot? Did they purchase something in the last 30 days? If yes, then rest assured that the card has some balance. Another way to do this if the card had a really old last order it's to sign up for a free trial: either Amazon Prime or Amazon Cloud will do. This is because Amazon won't charge a card, but just check if it's valid. Moreover, Amazon Prime is useful and quick to receive your shit.
If the Amazon trial is successful, congrats. Your card must have some balance you can take for yourself.
Note that whatever you may do after signing up for the trial is to be done fast if you have no email access/ didn't do the email cracking, anyway. The email will most likely receive something regarding their recent free trial. It's kinda of a non-alerting type of mail though, people may interpret that as "oh, I got a freebie from Amazon" or not.
Now you can try to card. There are two ways: A. Order a physical item directly to an Amazon Locker/drop (risky, remember that this solution is great for replacing items, but only adequate for carding) B. Order a gift card C. Order a digital code
"A" is the obvious, but, even after all the talk about drops before, this is a gamble, because you won't know if shipping is a success until a few hours. You should place multiple shipments for different amounts (like a first, big one of, let's say, $300, then a second one of $150 and a last one of $50). Amazon will give priority to the first and if not able to charge the CC will keep going down. Do no more than three or your account will get flagged. And, whatever you do, always ship as a gift to a fake name and an Amazon Locker. "B/C" is the subtle approach, and it's much more rewarding with a little work, like posting an add of giftcards for BTC and flipping the card instantaneously. Simply try to purchase digital codes and redeem them/sell them instantly or spam an email you own with Amazon Gift Cards. "B" is the most recommended option. Trial & Error like sending a $500 gift card and then going down if not working, or sending a couple of $50 to your stealth email should both work. Amazon gift cards are usually instantly credited to the account (sender/owner will be potentially be alerted). Stop after a few or try again until the card is drained. From now on, you should probably have already prepared a spare, fresh Amazon account you created. If not, create BEFORE the above steps a new one with a valid VCC (lots of sellers even on the clearnet, for price a few dollars) and an Amazon Prime subscription, just add one or two gift cards to it and purchase to an Amazon Locker. It should ship the next working day and time will hopefully be on your side. When it's shipped, it's unlikely anything will be done to you. Amazon usually won't deactivate/remove carded balance to protect unknowing consumers who may have purchased from a fraudulent seller, and 9 times out of 10 won't bother stopping the courier anyway. Moreover, there is no proof you are the one who carded in the first place (remember to change VPN/proxy if you are paranoid). GG. Just reminding that, currently, Lockers can accept parcels up to 30cm x 30cm x 30cm in dimension, with a maximum weight of 10lb.
PART 5: IF YOUR ACCOUNT IS SHIT So, you ended up with a completely worthless account: no orders and the card has expired/ has no balance. What to do?
Simplest answer ever: don't do anything else and wait. Unless the owner changes the account’s password you can keep checking it later for new purchases, new stuff and/or new cards added in total security. Treat your login infos just like a fishing rod in the sea. Then, strike the moment a new purchase is made or you see a new card. If you're up for some fun, still strike up a chat with Amazon's staff member and give them the sob story/money loss/continuous strange problems with your account. Who knows, like I said, they give small AGC for almost every stupid issue, why shouldn’t you try it anyway? And that takes us to the last point...
PART 6: GET CREATIVE This is especially for the experienced Social Engineer. This guide and its elements are just tool you can use, combine them, use your own twist. If you have half a brain you probably thought of something you can add to this or do yourself. Don't get discouraged if things go wrong the first time. Don't get careless. Don't get greedy. And more than anything, get creative. Audentes fortuna iuvat.
Best of luck!
